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"We'd like a word with you about watering your lawn by hand. - Don't."

There's an easier, more effective way to water your lawn. An automatic underground sprinkler system lets you enjoy a lush, healthy lawn all season long. Without lifting a finger.

The Advantages of Owning an Automatic Sprinkler System
Many people say convenience is the biggest advantage to an automatic system since they don't have to spend their time watering by hand or moving the hose around the yard. Others say extended plant life and lower water usage are the most important benefits.

Still others believe a sprinkler system is one of the most of the best financial investments they can make in their home since appearance is a key factor in determining market value. And guess what - they're all right!





Replacement parts are available in our online store only. Please call if you need help selecting the right product. Thank you

Water Works Irrigations & Illuminations Ltd.
(905) 404-9165

Every Drop Counts!

We Make It Green
Because We Think Green!

Canada's Largest Lawn Sprinkler Site - Do It Yourself Kits

Your Irrigation Information Location!
Design Services - Do-It-Yourself Kits - Parts - Service - Fall Closings

Irrigation installation requires more than laying piping and securing spray heads. Professional landscapers will know how to avoid gas lines when laying your new pipes.
They will also be aware of any restrictions in using city or well water, and be informed of your special local codes, for example, a professional plumber may be required to hook the irrigation system to the main water lines, and an electrician may also be required to review any electrical work done in connection with the project (automatic timers)

Measuring the property, calculating its slope, and properly adjusting for water pressure are just some of the tasks involved in home garden irrigation, and to do it right requires the expertise of professionals. This doesn't mean that clients are left out of the loop all together.
The professional landscaper will rely on you as the client to provide details of your gardening plan (turf vs. shrubs) and your budget. To get the most out of your relationship with your landscaper, however, a basic understanding of irrigation systems is quite an advantage.
Thinking of putting in a watering system yourself?

If you have been considering a system, whether installed by someone else or put in yourself, let us know. We can help with design and instructions on installing an automatic underground sprinkler system.

There is a lot of work to putting a system in, but if you are an avid do-it-yourselfer you may have the skills to put a system in yourself. The most important part is getting the particulars right. Such as gallons per minute available from your water source, be it a pump or city water supply. Size of the lawn as a whole, and divided up into sections.

This will give us the information needed to determine the number and type of sprinkler heads required to water each area. Matched precipitation is important also, this will put the same amount of water on all parts of the lawn so you don't have dry spots and wet spots.

If you are serious about tackling this project, but are unsure of where to start, we can (when given the required information) design a system for you and provide instructions on how to do each step of the installation process. If this interests you Contact us.

We offer complete lawn sprinkler system design & technical help

We can design your lawn sprinkler system for you with the following help from you, e-mail a certificate of survey of your property, which is available from the city if you don't have one, Otherwise you will need to measure your yard following the simple steps below.

Measuring Your Yard

The first step to designing your sprinkler system is to measure your property.

  • Step 1. Measure the distance around the outer edge of your lawn otherwise known as the property line. Draw the measurements on graph paper as you measure.
  • Step 2. Measure the distance around the house and any landscaping you might have around the house, and add the measurements on the graph paper.
  • Step 3. You will need to figure out where the house sits on the lot, and that can be done by the following, Measure from the front right corner of the house to right side property line and mark that on the paper, Then measure from the front right corner of the house to the street and mark that on the graph paper.

Water Pressure & Water Flow

Once you have the yard measured, you will have to figure out your water pressure and your gallons per minute, To figure out your G.P.M or gallons per minute, you will need a 5 gallon pail and a watch, for the PSI, you will need a pressure gauge.

Go to the faucet closest to where your main water line will be feeding your sprinkler system, Be sure you have a watch with a second hand, Closely time how long it takes to fill a five gallon pail. 30 seconds = 10 gallons per minute. 20 seconds = 15 gallons per minute, 15 seconds = 20 gallons per minute. Accuracy is very important.

Our Design fee is $149.99, We will credit this fee to your sprinkler system purchase.

This will include detailed sprinkler head and valve location so you will know exactly what you will need before you begin your project.

Installing Your Sprinkler System

The first step is deciding what type of backflow device you will be using. Double Check and Reduced Pressure backflows can be installed in the house. Pressure vacuum breakers are normally installed outdoors.

First, making sure the waterline is off, have a licensed plumber cut your mainline as close to the water meter as possible. You will install a tee at this location. Coming from the tee will be a shut off Ball valve. After the ball valve install the Double Check or RPZ back flow device, then a boiler drain for winterizing. Run your new sprinkler line outdoors.(we recommend 3/4 or 1" copper) For a PVB, this is where most are installed. Keep in mind, the PVB needs to be installed 12" or higher than the highest sprinkler head. Attach the pipe to the inlet side of the vacuum breaker and come out of the vacuum breaker with copper into the ground and go down at least 6", From there you can change it over to poly or PVC pipe or attached directly to the manifold.


The next step is to run the main water line to valves. You will also want to run your control wires with the main water line. Once the main water line is in, it is time to install all of the lateral lines. Pull the lateral lines from the valve box to the sprinkler heads. When you have installed all of the sprinkler pipe it is time to put in the valves.


The first step to installing the valves is to build a manifold, you will need to decide Whether or not you want to use ready made manifolds or you want to make them yourself, Ready made manifolds are much easier to install and replace if a valve has to be changed out some point in time. It is also easiest to install the valve manifold and valves above ground and only have to make connections in the valve box hole. Once everything is assembled, It is now time to connect the valves to the main and lateral lines. When connecting to the pipe be sure all of the clamps are fastened down tight. Radiator clamps will work but are not recommended, Otiker Clamps (gear clamps) will work much better and will last 10 times as long. When connecting the wires to the valves, Use the white wire as the common ground wire, When you wire the controller in, It will be much easier to figure out what wire is what.


After that you will want to make all of your connections through out the yard, Put in any elbows, tees or couplers. Tip: if the fittings are hard to push in the pipe, use a rubber mallet to tap them in. Again be sure that all of your clamps are tight and you didn't forget any.

Sprinkler Heads

When you are putting your heads in you will want to make sure that there are no kinks at the end of the line and that the pipe lays flat in the ground. Once you attach the saddle you will then put the threaded by barb fitting in the saddle and also the head. You can use a torch to heat up the pipe, It will make it much easier to push over the barbs, Only heat it up until it is shiny.

This "Do - it - Yourself" section is courtesy of TORO™

An automatic sprinkler system gives you the landscape you've always wanted.

A thicker, greener lawn. Beautiful gardens. It adds beauty and value to your home while saving time and water. How many times have you forgotten to water your lawn, then over watered -- only to end up with brown spots and muddy puddles? Like many homeowners, you could be using up to 50% more water than your landscape needs, which isn't good for your lawn or your pocketbook. The solution isn't to use more water, but to water more precisely. An automatic sprinkler system can give you a healthy, green lawn -- and more free time to enjoy the beautiful results.


Call your local water company or the proper municipal authority for information on building codes or permits required for the installation of underground sprinkler systems. They can also tell you about local codes for the backflow prevention required to protect your water supply from contamination, as well as advise on where to locate the backflow device in the system. In addition, check with your local utility companies before you dig to identify any buried cables or natural gas lines.

Personal injury may result from trenching over buried power lines or gas lines. Before digging or trenching, check with your local utility companies to identify any buried cables, pipe or gas lines.

When designing your system, we suggest you use the following planning tools:

  • Pencil
  • Scratch paper
  • Drawing compass
  • 50' tape measure straight edge or rulerline marking paint for marking trenches
  • Flags for marking sprinkler locations
  • Flow & Pressure Gauge. If you do not own a flow & pressure gauge, ask your local Home Center if they have one in their rental center. Gather Required Information.


Each small square on the graph should represent one square foot of actual property or use the scales provided.
Using your tape measure, outline and measure your property accurately according to scale, laying out the locations of your home, sidewalks, grass, etc.


  • Outline your house, garage and other structures.
  • Show walks, drives, slabs, patios and surfaces.
  • Locate and identify trees and major obstacles.
  • From the outside of your house, measure outward to define your perimeters.
  • Identify any slopes on your property.
  • Locate ground cover, grass, flower beds and landscaping.
  • Identify the size and location of the water meter (or pump) and main line.
  • Re-check your measurements at several different points.
  • Make sure your drawing accurately indicates the true dimensions.



Water pressure can vary from home to home, even on the same street. So it's important that you take a measurement at your own home. If you push your system beyond its capacity, the danger is that it can create water hammer and costly damage to your piping system. Also, if you exceed the pressure or water flow (GPM) you have available, your system will not function or work efficiently. The following are two reliable ways of determining your home's water capacity. We recommend using the flow and pressure gauge method because it's fast and easy.


Call your local water company or measure your supply line (the pipe leading from the water meter to your house).

  1. Locate the outside faucet that is closest to your water supply line (we'll call this Faucet 1).
  2. Locate another faucet on your house and attach a pressure gauge (we'll call this Faucet 2). Open Faucet 2 all the way and record the static water pressure below.
  3. With Faucet 1 open all the way, check the pressure reading on the gauge at Faucet 2. If it is less than 40 PSI, turn down the water flow from Faucet 1 until the reading reaches 40 PSI. If it is greater than 40 PSI, record the dynamic pressure reading below and go to step 4.
  4. Place a five-gallon bucket under Faucet 1 and time how long it takes to fill it. Use the chart below to convert to gallons per minute (GPM). This test tells you what your home's water capacity is measured in GPM at 40 PSI.
  5. Repeat this procedure at 45 PSI and 50 PSI. Record these three results on the chart below.
Time to Fill Bucket
Gallons Per Minute
15 Seconds
20 GPM
20 Seconds
15 GPM
25 Seconds
12 GPM
30 Seconds
10 GPM
40 Seconds
7.5 GPM
This is how much water is available with a working pressure of 40 PSI or the higher reading that you recorded. (Minimum operating pressure for most sprinklers is 35 PSI.)If you use a different size bucket, time how long it takes to fill it. Convert this to gallons per minute using the following formula:

60 ÷ Seconds x Gallons

For example: A two-gallon bucket that fills in 15 seconds means the available flow is 8 gallons per minute.

60 ÷ 15 x 2 = 8 GPM (gallons per minute)

Note: In freezing areas, poly pipe should be used downstream of zone valves.

Sprinkler Placement Planning

Place sprinklers within each area on your plan, one area at a time, using sprinklers with a greater radius for larger areas.

Stay within the allowable spacing range (radius) of sprinkler selected, and remember to space them head-to-head. Spacing sprinklers too far apart will produce dry spots. Always place sprinklers in a way to avoid spraying the side of your house, walls, fences, etc. Also, minimize spraying onto sidewalks, driveways and streets.

Place half-circle sprinklers on sides and borders; quarter-circle sprinklers in corners; and full-circle sprinklers in the middle.


For proper coverage, place sprinklers so that the spray from one sprinkler reaches the next. For windy areas (winds regularly stronger than 8 mph), place sprinklers closer -- at 90% of spray radius or more depending on local wind direction and speed


Determine spacing by sprinkler radius. For example, if you are using Toro 570(tm) Series sprinklers with a radius of 15', place your sprinklers no more than 15' apart; or closer together if you are in a windy area

To make sure you have proper head-to-head spacing, use a compass to draw circles, semi-circles and quarter-circles representing sprinkler coverage.

Square Spacing

This layout is best suited for well-defined, geometric spaces such as small, square or rectangle-shaped yards, or sites divided by sidewalks and other paved areas.

Special-Pattern Spacing

You can use Toro 570(tm) Series special-pattern sprinklers for end-strip and center-strip watering, as shown in the diagram below. Center-strip sprinklers spray in two directions, end-strip sprinklers spray in one direction only. Both are designed for precise watering of small, rectangular areas.

NOTE: When special pattern nozzles are unavailable, use the Toro Adjustable Pattern Nozzle.

Odd-Shaped Areas

After placing your sprinklers in large, rectangular areas, you can now place sprinklers in small, non-rectangular areas. Although each site is different, following are some handy guidelines.

  • Choose the area on the perimeter with the smallest radius.
  • Place a sprinkler with a small radius at that point.
  • Place sprinklers along the border starting from that area.
  • Adjust the radius of each sprinkler according to the size and shape of the area.
  • If coverage is incomplete, adjust sprinkler location.
  • When you have defined and placed all of your sprinklers, use a compass to double check your layout



No matter how simple or complex the landscape, Toro has the sprinkler family to cover every angle. Select sprinklers with a greater spray radius for large areas so you can use fewer sprinklers and valves, which means you also use less pipe with less trenching and fewer timer zones.

570 Series Fixed-Spray Sprinklers

Radius: 5'-15'

Toro 570(tm) Series fixed-spray sprinklers produce a tight, constant fan of water that's ideal for small lawn, shrub and ground cover areas. Pop-up models pop up above grasses and disappear when not in use. Shrub sprays are mounted above foliage to water ground cover and shrubs. True matched precipitation rates and color coding by radius are just a few of the exciting features of 570(tm) matched precipitation rate spray nozzles. Toro has more than 35 different interchangeable nozzles to choose from to give you maximum flexibility.


Radius: 0'-2'

Use the Toro Flood Bubbler for slow, deep watering around trees, shrubs, vegetable and flower gardens. Fully adjustable from off to 5 GPM.


Radius: 18'-27'

Toro's unique gear-driven, MultiStream sprinklers are recognized by their graceful "fingers of water" that slowly rotate to effectively penetrate medium-sized lawns, shrubs and ground cover -- especially on slopes


Radius: 34'-48'

The Toro SingleStream Sprinkler is perfect for medium-to-large lawn areas. Its gear-driven design provides years of smooth, quiet operation.


Radius: 27'-47'

The Toro SimpleSet Lawn Sprinkler offers full and part-circle operation in a single unit. This closed-case rotary sprinkler is ideal for large lawn areas and it's simple to set


Radius: 25'-45'

Toro Universal Impact Sprinklers are perfect for medium-to-large lawn areas. These impacts are adjustable from 20°-340° for part circle operation or 360° for full circle operation. Toro Impact Sprinklers are heavy-duty and will offer years of reliable operation.


There are two types of valves: anti-siphon and in-line. Please check your local codes to determine which is appropriate in your area.


Save time, save money and save water with Toro Blue Stripe irrigation products.


When selecting a timer, there are two things to consider--number of zones (valves) and number of programs. It's important to choose a timer that can adapt to your growing needs. The additional programs allow you to water the different areas of your landscape (lawn, shrubs, flower beds) separately.


Funny Pipe is a high-strength poly tubing that solves tough sprinkler installation & replacement problems. Put simply, Funny Pipe acts as a flexible extension cord between sprinkler line and sprinkler head, allowing you to easily position sprinklers where you need them, even in hard-to-reach areas
One of the most useful and time-saving sprinkler installation aids is Toro Funny Pipe.
Whether you are installing a new system or replacing an old sprinkler head, Toro Funny Pipe can make your job quicker and easier.


Determine the number of valves that you will need, based on the number of zones you have designed.

Locate Your Valves On The Plan

We recommend grouping the valves. For example, one valve location is needed to operate front yard zones, and one to operate the backyard and/or side-yard zones.

Locate the first set of valves in a convenient spot near the main water connection. A good location is where the service line enters your house. Also, place valves next to walks or in planters for easier access.

The number of zones used on your automatic timer should match or exceed the number of zones in your system (plan for potential expansion).


Draw these connecting pipes on your grid layout and follow these rules:

  • Use as many straight runs as possible.
  • Try to avoid turns, which result in loss of pressure.
  • Avoid runs under sidewalks and driveways whenever possible.
  • Make connections perpendicular to each other.
  • NOTE: You can include more than one pipe in a trench. Depending on local codes and zone GPM , consider using 1" Schedule 40 PVC pipe upstream of control valves and at least 3/4" Class 200 PVC pipe or 3/4" poly pipe downstream.


Install the timer inside your garage, or on an outside wall near a 120 VAC outlet. If you install the timer outside, be sure to mount it in a weather-resistant timer cabinet such as the one available from Toro. Toro also offers an expandable outdoor timer, specially designed to be installed outdoors. Check local electrical codes for connection to outside plugs.

Place zone or valve wires in the same trenches as the pipe. Remember that valves will be wired to the timer, so place valve wires where they are easily accessible.

Toro recommends 18-gauge solid, multi-strand, direct-burial wire to connect valves to sprinkler timers. You will need one wire per zone, plus the common wire. This eight-zone system requires nine wires. Be sure to waterproof all of your connections using grease caps

Check Local Codes And Permits

Call your water company or the proper municipal authority to find out about any building codes or permits required for the installation of underground sprinkler systems. They can tell you about local codes for backflow prevention to protect your household water supply from contamination. They can also advise you on where in the system it should be located. In addition, check with your local utility companies before digging to identify any buried cables or natural gas lines.
Mark Your Sprinklers, Valves and Trenches

Use Toro flags to indicate sprinkler locations according to your design. Use line-marking spray paint to mark the lines along the area where you'll trench and install pipe. Check your worksheet to make sure you mark the lines accurately. You will be digging your trenches along these lines.

Before digging any trenches, you must have all underground utilities marked to avoid any damage. Call your local underground locator service or the city for information.


The main line is the line that runs from your service line to your valve manifolds. Lateral lines run from the valve manifolds to the sprinkler heads.


To soften the soil, water the ground approximately two days before you dig. Dig trenches 8" to 12" deep or per local codes below the frost line in freezing climates. Put sod on one side of the trench and soil on the other.


Trenching machines are an easier, faster alternative to digging with a shovel. They can be rented by the hour, day or week, usually from a lawn supply store or rental equipment dealer. The person you rent from can show you how to operate the machine properly and safely. Trenchers should not be used to dig through ground cover, flower beds, on steep slopes or near buildings. Be sure to verify all underground utilities before trenching.


To tunnel under brick and concrete walks, attach a piece of Schedule 40 PVC pipe to a hose with a hose-to-pipe adapter. Cap the end with a PVC cap and drill a 1/8" hole in the end of the cap. Point the end of the pipe to where you want to tunnel. Turn on the water and push the pipe under the concrete. The force of water will blast away the soil in front of it to form a tunnel. Tunneling requires care to avoid damage to walks and driveways.


Attach your sprinkler system main line to the service line. Run it along the bottom of the trench from the house to the first set of valves and if required, to the second set. Place your valve wire under the pipe whenever possible.


PVC Pipe

Cut pipe with a PVC pipe cutter.
Brush on a primer to clean the pipe surface and the inside of the fitting.
Brush glue on the outside end of the pipe and lightly inside the fitting.
Slip the pipe into the fitting and give it a quarter turn.
Hold in place for about 15 seconds so the glue can set.
Wipe off excess glue with a rag.
NOTE: Wait at least one hour before running water through the system.
(Check manufacturer's recommendation).


Cut pipe with a PVC pipe cutter.
Slip a stainless-steel clamp over the end of the pipe.
Insert the barbed fitting into the end of the poly pipe, past the barbs.
Slide the clamp over the barbs of the fitting.
Tighten the clamp.
Save time with no sawing, drilling or gluing - use the Toro Self-Tapping Saddle for poly pipe (80-100 PSI). Available at your local home center.
NOTE: To relax poly pipe, expose it to sunlight. Never expose poly pipe to open flame.

Do not use poly pipe as the connecting pipe between the service line and the control valves. Surge pressure may rupture the poly pipe. Be sure to check local codes for correct type of pipe to use.


A group of valves is called a manifold. We recommend grouping the control valves -- for example, one control valve location to operate front yard zones, and one to operate backyard and/or side yard zones. Use flags to mark the location of the valves, as indicated on your worksheet.

Anti-siphon valves are always installed above ground. With an anti-siphon valve, dig out an area large enough to accommodate your inlet and outlet pipes.

In-line valves are installed below ground. Protect valves below ground by sheltering them in a valve box. Dig out the area where below-ground valves are to be installed. Install the valve box at or near grade level. When you buy a valve box, be sure to find out how many valves fit in each box so you can buy the correct amount. In some cases, you will need more than one valve box per manifold


Start from the valves and move outward, laying the connecting pipe along the bottom of the trench. At each flag, install an appropriate fitting for sprinkler attachment. We recommend that you use Toro Funny Pipe(R) for all your sprinkler head installations.


After the pipe has been connected and the glue has dried (PVC pipe only), turn on the water, open valves one zone at a time and flush until the water runs clear.

NOTE: Don't backfill your trenches until your final system operation check is complete.

NOTE: PVC pipe is shown in these illustrations. However, in areas where freezing occurs, poly pipe may be used downstream of valves instead of PVC. Always check local codes for proper pipe recommendations and before installing backflow prevention devices.


Install one sprinkler zone at a time, using Toro Funny Pipe(R). Remember to refer to your planning worksheet.

1.Placing a sprinkler in a trench as a guide, measure from the connecting pipe fitting to the bottom of the sprinkler and cut a length of Funny Pipe to fit. Place sprinklers at least 3" from sidewalks, curbs and 6" from fences and buildings.

2.Install the appropriate Funny Pipe elbow into the sprinkler and into the PVC or poly pipe fitting.

3.Connect one end of Funny Pipe to the sprinkler and the other end to the connecting pipe fitting.

NOTE: Do not use more than 4' of Toro Funny Pipe with each sprinkler head.

4.Position the sprinkler in the trench so that the top of the sprinkler is flush with ground level. Stabilize the sprinkler with soil without filling the entire trench.

5.Verify that the sprinkler is straight for optimum performance


1. Install the timer in your garage or another convenient place. If an outdoor location is desired, plan to use an outdoor cabinet to protect the timer against the effects of weather. Make sure an adequate power supply is available. Toro timers require only a standard outlet (see instructions included with the timer for details).

2. Run wires along the trench, underneath the pipe and from the valves to the system timer.

3. Connect the valves to the timer.

Take one wire from each valve and connect them to a common wire (for ease of identification, use the white wire as the common).
At the timer, connect the common wire to the common terminal on the timer.
Take the other wire from each valve and connect them to the timer terminals in sequence.
4. Plug in the timer.

NOTE: All outdoor connections and splices must be waterproofed.


CAUTION: When installing with an electric timer:

1. The Automatic Pump Starter should be mounted at least 5 feet away from the timer.

2. The timer should be at least 12 feet away from the pump.

3. The pump should be on a separate power source than that of the timer (the pump is a high-power user).



1. Slowly turn on the water and manually open the control valve.

2. Adjust the sprinklers to ensure proper coverage (see sprinkler installation instructions for details).

3. If your coverage is incomplete, follow the steps below:

  • Make sure the control valve and shut-off valve are fully open.
  • Turn off any water being used in the house (washers, showers, faucets, etc.).
  • Fine-tune sprinkler spray patterns to match your coverage area.
  • If coverage is still not complete, go back and check your system layout against the plans.
  • When you see that the coverage is satisfactory, fill in the trench.

  Use 5 to 6 wraps of "Plumbing" tape on threaded fittings. This will allow parts to be assembled hand tight and not leak. It also allows for heads to be rotated to adjust them.
  Poly pipe should be used in areas where the ground freezes more than a few inches deep. If you install PVC pipe in an area where the ground freezes it may be broken by frost heaves even if the system is dry. If you live in an area where it gets below freezing you will want to have your system blown out in the fall.
  Put a tee in the supply pipe where it exits the house, before the Pressure Vacuum Breaker (PVB) and screw a cap on the extra leg. This will provide an easy place to attach an airline.
  Don't blow out a system at more than 40 psi or for more than two minutes. If the system has rotors (heads that turn) the gear drives are lubricated by the water and if run dry will be damaged.
  Multistream rotors are the most sensitive to dirty water. City water is typically fine. If you have dirty water the 570 series is the most forgiving. To check your water, fill a clean, white, five-gallon pail and look for sand or debris. If you see any contamination do not use the multi stream head.
  Use bigger pipe. The smaller the pipe, the faster the water flows. The faster the water flows the more friction it has with the pipe. More friction means you loose more pressure. Larger pipe results in water flowing slower through the pipe and less friction. Larger pipe results in less pressure lost due to friction.
  Funny pipe is typically run for 2-3 feet between the head and the pipe. The closer you are to the valve, the farther you can go. First head on the zone may be able to use 5-6 feet of funny pipe with out a problem.
  Use PVC tubing cutters, not a hack saw. Tubing cutters are like a rose bush pruner with a ratcheting handle. They give an extremely clean cut on 1"-1 1/4" PVC pipe. They also work well on Funny Pipe.
  Build the system on top of the ground. Glue it all together and test it out. Make sure you get the coverage you want and make any desired changes before you dig. Cut it into a few big sections and then did your trenches. If you leave it on the lawn for a few days your grass will yellow a little right where you want to dig. Glue it back together as you drop it into the trenches.
  Put in more heads than you think you need. They are inexpensive and easy to remove if you decide you don't want one.
  When using in ground valves use a big valve box. This will make installation easier and will help if you ever have to service a valve. Don't limit your self to the standard valve boxes. A wood box made with 2x8 lumber and a wood or plywood lid works well. Rake wood chips or gravel over it to hide it. Two foot by three foot is a nice size for four to six valves.
  Heads should be place so each area of the lawn is watered by at least two heads. This is called head-to-head coverage. This means if the head has a radius of 15', the next head should be no more than 15' away. A little closer is better to allow for adjustments. You can reduce the throw distance by up to 25% on all of our heads.
  When doing a flow test to determine the capacity of your water supply, be aware of changes in the neighbor hood that are planned. If you are the first house in a new development you may find the pressure and flow drop in the coming years as more homes are built. Call your local municipality to find out what they plan the pressure and flow to be once development is completed. Static pressure does not help design a system.
  What you need to know is the gallons per minute at 35-40 psi. Either use the Toro flow tester (#53351) or test with a pressure gage and a bucket. Put the gage on one outside faucet and open the faucet. Now go to another outside faucet and open it till the gage reads a steady 35-40 psi with the water flowing. Measure how many gallons per minute you are getting using a five-gallon bucket. If you have 1/2" pipe going to the faucet you will probably get an unrealistically low reading. You may want to install your PVB and a 3/4" faucet on it to get a more realistic reading. One-inch pipe is pretty standard for plumbing in the PVB for up to 12 gallons per minute.
  When opening the PVB, open the inlet valve as fast as you can. This will result in the internal float sealing the vent. Opening it slowly may result in the float not sealing the vent and lots of water purging from the vent area around the to of the PVB. Some water leakage is normal when opening the valve but it normally stops in a few seconds.
  Water big areas with single stream rotors, small or irregular areas with 570 series. Use multi streams on slopes, windy areas, and because you like the look.
  If using poly pipe (the black stuff in a coil) consider having an irrigation company install the pipe. They typically use a vibratory plow to pull the pipe through the yard and do a lot less damage to the lawn than a trencher. The price is typically not bad.
  When installing funny pipe or the regular poly pipe it is easiest if the pipe is warm. Leave it in the sun on the driveway or have a bucket of hot water to put the ends in to make it easier to attach fittings to it.
  Leave room for more valves. You may want to add irrigation to a garden or a drip system and it's a lot easier to allow for it now.
  Call before you dig. You may think you know where buried utilities are but it's not worth the risk of injury or cost of repair if you're wrong.
  Bury your pipes 8-10 inches deep. This should put them below the sprinkler body and out of reach for lawn aeration.
  Buy a couple spare heads. Sooner or later one will be damaged and need to be replaced. Nice to have some spares on hand.
  When replacing a head, follow these steps. Dig out a donut of sod about 18 inches in diameter. Dig out the dirt around the head. Remove the old head. Install the body only for the new head. Keep the cap, spring, riser etc off to the side. Turn on the zone for a few seconds to flush the system. Install all the parts for the new head. Put the dirt back in the hole. Reinstall the grass donut around the head. Pack it and your done.
  Leave extra wire at you timer an in the valve box. This will make servicing and/or replacing parts easier.
  When you run the wires from the timer to the valve box, run a couple extra conductors. This will make it easier to expand the system and will give you spare wires if anything goes wrong.
  Put your timer in a convenient place. Easy access and good light make it easier to change the program. Just inside the garage door or in a carport may be convenient.
  Take some pictures when all your digging is complete and you are putting the pipes in. They will help you locate the pipes if you ever want to change something. Put the pictures in a plastic bag by the timer.
  Over 80 psi static may result in valve problems. A plumbing supply place in your area should be able to provide a pressure regulator to bring the pressure down below 80psi.
  Run the irrigation system early in the morning. This is when water pressure is typically at its best. It is also best for the lawn. If you water in the evening the blades of grass will stay wet much longer and make it easier for fungus to grow. Early morning also has the least wind. Wind can easily blow a spray pattern several feet off target resulting in dry areas.
  If you are planning to irrigate a sloped area you should take special care in laying out each zone. Run your zones across the slope so all the heads in a zone are at the same height. This will prevent the zone from draining each time it shuts off. If this is not possible you may be able to locate spring loaded PVC check valves that can be installed in the lines to prevent drainage from occurring. If you install a system that drains each time it shuts off you will have a hissing and spitting sound each time a zone comes on until the air is purged.
  Another problem may occur if your system has a PVB. Air in the system may allow the pressure at the PVB to drop below the minimum 25-psi and result in water purging from the vent.
  Think about installing valve boxes in more than one location. One for the front yard, one for the back, and maybe one for each side. This could make the plumbing much easier especially if your system will have many zones.
  Don't mix different types of sprinklers on the same zone or valve. The watering times for rotors vs. fixed-spray heads are very different. You will want to have control over how long each type is watering.
  You can include more than 1 pipe in a trench. Depending on local codes, we suggest using 1 inch Schedule 40 PVC upstream of the control valves. Use at least 3/4 inch Class 200 PVC or 3/4 inch Poly Pipe downstream.
  To dig a trench under a sidewalk or driveway, take a length of PVC pipe and attach a hose to one end. Use the power of the water along with the strength of the pipe to dig your way under the concrete